Fibulae prehistory & antiquity

In this blog, we delve into one of the most worn items in history, the fibula. To understand the development of the Roman fibula, we first explore the long history of the fibula.

A fibula is a type of brooch that was used for thousands of years to fasten garments, such as cloaks, tunics, and dresses. This utility item combines functionality with aesthetics: aside from their practical role, fibulae often served as jewelry and sometimes even as status symbols. Although the first designs were simple, fibulae evolved into complex and artistic objects, where technological refinement and cultural identity played an important role. From emperors to slaves, adults and children: everyone wore fibulae.

Fibulae were widely used from the late Bronze Age. Their designs and constructions changed over the centuries and spread across large parts of Europe and the Mediterranean. Here is an overview of the main types and their evolution.

The first fibulae appeared in the Mycenaean civilization in Greece, around the 14th century BC. Bronze Age Europe is characterized by intensive trade that took place throughout Europe and even with the Near East. It is likely that through these routes, the fibula spread rapidly. These early designs, also known as bow fibulae, had a simple construction. They consisted of a flat, low arch and a pin that ran parallel to the body of the fibula. The body itself could have a round or square cross-section, and some specimens featured small decorations. The shape of the arch was ideal for tucking fabric so that both the fibula and the cloak or peplos stayed in place.

From Mycenae, fibulae were traded to other regions’s, including Crete, Cyprus, and Sicily. These fibulae were characterized by:

• A low, flat arch.
• A body that ran parallel to the pin, with round or square cross-sections.
• Sometimes simple decorations at the ends.

In the 12th century BC, a new design emerged that was distinguished by a higher and rounder arch. The first versions of these fibulae were thin, but over time they became more robust and were made from thicker metal or double twisted wires. This type of fibula remained popular for five centuries and marked an important step in the development of both functionality and form.

Between the 11th and 9th century BC, another important design emerged: the fibula with horizontal spirals. This design is also known as the spectacle fibula, including the Haslau and St. Lucija types. These had two connected wire spirals. These examples often form decorative spiral motifs.

In the 6th century BC, the design was further refined into the Vierpass type, which combined four small spirals and a square central plate. These refinements not only demonstrated technological advancement but also showed that symbolism was increasingly integrated into the fibulae: spirals and triskelion motifs were also used in other art objects from this time.

This style also spread further across the Greek world during this period and reached Anatolia, the Balkans and large parts of Europe. They are known for the many archaeological finds from the Nordic bronze Age.

• Initially thin arches.
• Later more robust designs, made from thicker metal or double twisted wires.

During the Hallstatt period, an early phase of the Iron Age, some of the most iconic fibula designs appeared. Hallstatt fibulae were often richly decorated and showed influences from various European and Mediterranean cultures.

A notable type from this period was a type of bow fibula, which often featured a spiral spring and decorative ends. Some of these ends were shaped like human or animal figures, which had a clearly symbolic meaning. Eye-shaped fibulae, with a stylized appearance reminiscent of human or animal eyes, were also popular. Archaeological finds, such as those at the Chertsey cemetery, show that these designs were influenced by styles from Hungary, Scandinavia, and Greece.

• Eye-shaped fibulae 
• Long flat bow fibulae

The Romans began to use fibulae widely only at the beginning of their imperial period. In the late 1st century BC, early designs were likely influenced by Celtic and Germanic styles. Early Roman fibulae were often bow fibulae made from a single piece of bronze. Crafting these required skill, as the bronze had to be worked with precision. Very popular were the decorated bow fibulae in the Celtic La Tène art style.

Another common type in this period was the crossbow fibula, this model had a pin that formed an extension with the bow on both sides. These had a straight pin and a double spring mechanism. They were mainly worn by military personnel and served as a practical fastening for cloaks such as the sagum and paludamentum. Since ancient Greek times, women primarily wore smaller fibulae on both shoulders to keep the peplos and stola in place.

In Gallo-Roman France and Britain, some unique styles emerged. The dolphin fibula, for example, with a curved arch and hidden double springs, was designed to resemble a leaping dolphin and the trumpet fibula.

Other designs from this region included the Hod Hill fibula, with segment-shaped arches and lateral decorations, and the Thracian anchor fibula, a crescent-shaped design popular in Pannonia, Dacia, and Serbia. Fibulae around this time were characterized by:

• Bow fibulae, usually made from a single piece bronze.
• Crossbow fibulae, simple designs with a straight pin and a clasp.
• Dolphin fibulae: Featuring a curved bow and hidden double springs, resembling a leaping dolphin.
• Hod Hill fibulae: With segment-shaped arches and small lateral protrusions.
• Thracian anchor fibulae: With a crescent shape, found in Pannonia (Hungary), Dacia (Romania), and Serbia.

In the 2nd century AD, the Roman fibula began to further develop with new designs and technological innovations. A popular type from this period was the shield fibula, also called disc fibula. These fibulae used a decorative shield as the centerpiece, often adorned with inlaid gemstones or stamped images. Another popular design was the omega-shaped fibula, or horseshoe fibula, named for its resemblance to the Greek letter omega or a horseshoe. This fibula was worn until the 11th century.

In this period, the Romans also added loops or hinges to the back of plate fibulae, further increasing ease of use. Decorative techniques such as enamel also became increasingly popular.

• Knee fibulae: These had a 90-degree angle in the bow and were widespread in Roman Pannonia (now Hungary).
• Brooch fibulae (shield fibulae): These had a decorative shield that was often inlaid with gemstones or featured stamped images.
• Omega-shaped fibulae: Their shape resembled the Greek letter omega, and they were worn until the 11th century. 

The technological refinements in this period include:

• Loops or hinges added to plate fibulae.
• Decorations such as enamel and cast designs.

After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, fibulae continued to be used by various peoples. Germanic tribes, Byzantine armies, and Vikings continued to wear fibulae, while other groups, such as the Mongols, switched to richly decorated belt accessories.

Among the Germans and the Irish and Pictish populations of the British Isles, the fibula reached the peak of its development. But more on that in another blog. 

However, the use of fibulae in Western and Central Europe began to decline after the Migration Period. The introduction of simple buttons as a cheaper and more practical solution led to a decrease in popularity. Additionally, after the conversion to Christianity, the practice of including grave goods ceased, which contributed to the diminished symbolic role of the fibula as jewelry.

In the Middle Ages, fibulae persisted, but they were mainly worn as decorative brooches, without their original function as a fastener.

• The introduction of simple buttons as an alternative.
• The cessation of grave goods, which reduced their symbolic role as jewelry.

Identifying fibulae is often challenging due to confusion surrounding their nomenclature. There is no fixed standard for naming fibulae. As a result, some types or groups of fibulae may have different names depending on the context or classification.

 Some fibulae are named after the place where they were found, such as the Alesia-fibula, Hod Hill-fibula, or Nauheim-fibula. It is important to understand that the name of a location does not always mean it is the origin of the type. For instance, the Hod Hill-fibula was found in Great Britain, but the design of this group of fibulae originates from Gaul.

Fibulae often had a complex structure. The following components are generally distinguished:

• Pin: The part that is inserted through the fabric.
• Bow (or body): The central part of the fibula that determines the shape and rigidity.
• Guard plate: The pin holder that prevents the fibula from opening and damaging the skin.
• Spring: The mechanism that connects the pin to the bow and maintains tension.

Besides fibulae, simple pins were also used. These were sometimes equipped with a decorated metal ball or other decorations at the end.